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Bugging out at the Audobon Insectarium In New Orleans

venus flytrap light fixture

People have an almost primal reaction to insects. After all, they are the most alien-looking creatures we encounter on a regular basis. As Jeffrey Lockwood puts it at Popsci, “You could think of our fear and disgust of insects of being as a conspiracy of evolution and culture.” I myself feel a combination of fascination and disgust with insects, which is dependent on the type of insect I’m encountering and the context of said encounter. After all, it’s one thing to obsessively hunt insects in Animal Crossing, and another to have your mother scream while braiding your hair that your head is covered with bugs, prompting a call to the principal who came over and picked both bugs and eggs out of your hair at the kitchen table which then prompted an announcement over the school loudspeaker about there being an outbreak of lice and that no one in the second grade should be sharing coats or hats or brushes and everyone knows it’s you. Hypothetically speaking, of course.  One thing to have a butterfly flit around you in the garden and another to have a horde of spiders flooding out of a cardboard box in your direction. I think that the Audobon Insectarium in New Orleans enjoys playing with this juxtaposition of fascination and repulsion, placing enormous scaled-up insect nightmares next to smaller, cuter real life versions with tiny presents and holiday trees in their enclosures.

audubon insectarium

biodiversity pyramid

beetle

beetles

underground

The Insectarium must also enjoy getting a good shriek out of  people. In the Richard C. Colton, Jr. Underground area, you walk into a very dimly lit room, where something promptly bursts out of the wall in your direction, which caused Jason to squeal like a little girl and brought vivid flashbacks of Tremors screaming to the forefront of my mind. The entire rest of the underground area, I was on edge, waiting for something else to move or jump or slither past…so of course, nothing did.

creepy underground bug

ant battle

worm rider

However, all of that anxiety really works up an appetite, so thankfully, I was right on time for the opening of The Bug Buffet, where chefs whip up various dishes containing insects to teach you about the environmental benefits of eating insect protein, and you get to try any and all of them that your little heart desires. I decided I was going to try and set aside everything I’d been taught about the grossness of bug eating and take it on its own merits (or lack therof, depending on how things turned out.) After all, I’ve almost certainly unknowingly eaten any number of insect parts or rat hairs or any number of things that would make me heave if I thought about them too closely, so it probably wasn’t going to kill me*.

bugonthat

the bug buffet

bug buffet

chocolate chirp cookies

insect dips

On the menu for that day:

  • fried waxworms with cinnamon and sugar
  • cajun crickets
  • fried waxworms with taco seasoning and chili powder
  • chocolate “chirp” cookies with roasted crickets
  • cream cheese and onion cricket dip
  • mango chutney with poached waxworms
  • tomato salsa with crab-boiled mealworms

The only thing I didn’t try was the salsa, and that was out of a greater objection to the cilantro in the salsa than the mealworms themselves. If you can get out of the “oh gross, bugs” mindset, they taste kind of like nothing. Maybe the crickets had a slightly nutty flavor, maybe. Mostly, they just take on the flavor of whatever is around them, which is good in the case of apple pie waxworms and maybe not so great in the case of devil-weed mealworm salsa. While I daintily picked out a solitary waxworm and apple combo to place on a wheat thin (the preferred cracker of insect-eaters everywhere), I realized I had the chefs to myself so I could annoy them with my particular brand of hard-hitting questions. I learned that all of their insect supply is farmed and shipped to them, which I found relieving as I was envisioning them just sweeping the dead and sick and just plain unsociable ones out of the bottom of the cages–you know, waste not, want not and all that. I also learned that, no, neither of them have witnessed someone take a bite of something and start dry-heaving right there in line, setting off a vomit chain reaction that led back to the entrance of the Insectarium and right up Canal Street all the way to Bourbon. They were also more than happy to provide me with information about their supplier in case I was interested in hosting some lavish insect eating affair in my own home.

giant deep fried waterbugs

Along the walls in the Bug Buffet, they also had some photos of insect cuisine that I think I would find a lot more, ahem, challenging to consume. Things that would take more than one bite to eat and which I’m imagining would sort of ooze into one’s mouth like a fruit gusher…which aren’t even that pleasing as a fruit-based product, and would be even less palatable as bug goo. Look, I said I was working to set aside those prejudices, not that I was wholly successful and one step closer to being an all-around perfect human being.

And then, next to the door of the tiny termite cafe, they had this diorama that nearly made me lose my snacks. They can call it a roach’s christmas, but I feel a more apt title is “Christmas is ruined and for baby jesus’ sake, clean the kitchen” which I suppose is just a matter of semantics. 

roach christmas

cockroach tea

….and another hard no. Please and thank you, I would rather have lockjaw than drink whatever flakes off of a cockroach when it’s been boiled. If it works, though, a lifetime supply of tetanus remedy is really economical–you can step on rusty nails left and right and just keep using the same cockroach as those hardy little fuckers will survive the apocalypse and surely think nothing of a little boiling water, shaking it off and nonchalantly strolling away to go make a nest in your sandwich.

my god its full of stars

red crayfish

crawfisharmor 2

armor

stag beetle

put your hand in here if you dare

In the room dedicated to insect defenses, there was a box labeled “put your hand in here if you dare,” to teach you a lesson about how quickly a spider can strike. Both remembering the incident in the underground area, Jason passed, and I hovered in front of the box like the world’s largest and most afraid baby, moving my hand closer and then yanking it away. A kid witnessed this dilemma of adult babydom and rushed right over to cram his hand inside, screaming when the harmless puff of air went off and making everyone in the room collapse with laughter. Good thing it was him and not me, I may have thought. But never you worry, I got my comeuppance less than ten minutes later at their interactive video insect show, where the chair unexpectedly punches you in the back to simulate an insect sting and I shrieked like the devil himself had popped out of the ground in front of me and wanted to have a serious discussion about my potty mouth. So, if you’re counting, that’s no fewer than three screams in one museum, which is damn impressive for a museum. Maybe more on a crowded day at the bug buffet.

 

black butterfly

black yellow red butterfly

butterfly

butterfly damaged wing

yellow butterfly

After all of that screaming, I was definitely ready for a more chill time in the Insectarium’s butterfly garden. Unfortunately, the butterfly garden was where every shrieking kid in the greater New Orleans area decided to hang out, grabbing butterflies out of the air and bellowing at the top of their lungs, while the employees fruitlessly tried to tell people to look with their eyes and not their hands. I wonder if the same thing would be an issue in a roach room, or if everyone would still be screaming and touching, but for different reasons.

*The same cannot be said of those who have shellfish allergies–you may also be allergic to insects so eat with caution if you’re dead set on doing so.

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A hike to Cape Flattery

 

boardwalk

cape-flattery

blue green water

the beautiful water of cape flattery

grasses

jason hike

cape_flattery

hazy cape

fog and a windswept tree

cape flattery

sandstone caves

sandstone fingers

 It was a long road to Cape Flattery–almost five hours from my doorstep to Neah Bay, including a ferry ride across the sound. After stopping at the Makah Museum to pick up a recreation pass (required to park and hike on tribal land, and good for the entirety of the year in which it’s purchased), I drove the winding forest roads to the trailhead. From the trailhead, it was a short, easy hike to several viewpoint areas…and there I was, on the northwesternmost point of the continental United States, the deep blue-green waves relentlessly pounding on the sandstone cliffs, the distant Sitka trees blanketed in fog, a gentle rain falling,  the few other people there also in silent awe of the beauty of the cape. On the way out, I saw deer calmly cropping on the side of the road and bald eagles circling in the sky. I hope to go back soon to hike the other, longer trail on Makah land: Shi Shi Beach.

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I’ve eaten eight different meats! I’m a true renaissance man: The Midsomer Feast at Camlann

camlann entrance

It comes as no surprise to anyone that most of the medieval and renaissance faires are a little light on the historical accuracy. People expect bold knights jousting on stately horses, queens doing queen stuff, turkey legs the size of a toddler, and signs with “ye olde” in front of them. I’ve previously stated that “The best part about visiting a medieval faire, ANY medieval faire, is that none of them are authentic.” And that was misinformed–because Camlann Medieval Village aims to be the counterpoint to those faires, a living 14th century historical museum, complete with monthly medieval feasts served with meticulously researched recipes.

Because these sorts of things are always more fun in groups, I recruited some friends to partake in the pageantry and excitement of the Midsomer Festival. Archery! Sheep patting for young and old! Minstrelsy and puppet shows! All capped with a twelve course feast! And the truly adventurous could rent period garb onsite to really get into the spirit of the day. We joked about having to send our reservations in by mail, wondering if they’d be rejected because they weren’t properly sealed with wax or delivered by trained raven. The only problem was figuring out when and where we should all meet, because everyone had different obligations and goals for the day. I decided to try and arrive early just so I wouldn’t miss anything.

candle dipping

archery at camlann

blacksmith sheep chasing

medieval style sheep shearing

sheep

I needn’t have worried about missing anything, as there was actually very little going on. The sheep had zero interest in being patted by the young or the old, the archery and candle dipping were only available to those who paid an additional fee, and it was over 90 degrees in the shade so there was no way on earth I was going to layer a neck to ground crushed velvet dress on top of my street clothes. So after I looked at the blacksmith and the potter and felt like a fool interacting with a historical reenactor (she invited us into her cottage and I read at the entrance that you weren’t supposed to ask any modern questions so I fumbled around and eventually came up with “Uh..what manner of..uh, fowl, doth that wing be from?” which I’m sure was completely wrong in both language and phrasing and then when she answered, I nodded, looked pensive for a second and was like “Well…bye!”), I sent a message to the group warning them to push back their arrival closer to the feast. I then farted around, taking pictures, and eventually made my way to Boar’s Hede Inn in the hopes of getting something to drink. I waited, and waited, and eventually a man in a historical outfit came to the front and asked if he could help us. When I inquired as to whether they sold beverages, he told me that just then they were only serving a hot meal.

Ooookaaay. So I understand that they’re trying for historical accuracy and that a coke machine would look really out of place plugged into their book shoppe, but it is a problem that the only way to get a drink of water in the entire village is to beg the workers to take a sip from their communal cuppe. It is more than a problem, it is fucking ridiculous to encourage people to traipse around in winter-weight fabric during a heat wave and have nothing on site for them to drink. It’s asking for heat stroke and a lawsuit. The actors were apologetic but said that Camlann has been struggling financially and can’t afford to hire people to sell drinks, which I don’t understand, because drinks are generally profit centers. EVEN SO, if they don’t want to hire someone and outfit them in period garb and buy and store and keep track of more stuff and deal with the increased amount of garbage (which I understand), they should at least make it clear on their website and at their entrance that they don’t provide these services and encourage people to bring their own. Especially if they’re already struggling financially. All they need is one kid to keel over and they’re done.

boars hede     water barrel

ladies room  mens room

musical performance

puppet show

rustic fences

scenery and greenery   village and bunting

I ended up leaving and killing time in town with a beverage until about an hour before the feast, at which point I decided that the only way to properly get back into the spirit of things was to buy myself a flower crown. And where Camlann lacked in their guest services, they made up for it in flower crownnery. The wonderful woman who made my crown (whom I later found out is a friend of a friend, because I live in a very small world) asked how big and bold I wanted my crown to be, and I told her that I wanted it to look like a garden had exploded on my head, and ideally I should be able to use it to camouflage myself in case a bear wandered by. She was happy to oblige and made me the most hands-down-flipping-gorgeous piece of headwear I’ve ever seen, much less worn. I felt like Queen Titania, only jeans-clad and sweaty.

flower crown making

baller flower crown

dinner call

Eventually the appointed time came, and my friends and I met up outside the Boar’s Hede, not quite knowing what to expect. They don’t allow any photography or video into their feasts (presumably for reasons of ambiance), though they did post the menu online so we’d have some idea of what we’d be eating:

Cours i

TRENCHER BREAD (to eat & to eat upon)

CHYCHES (chickpeas roasted)

A SOMER SALAT (herbs, greens & flowers)

JOWTES OF ALMOND MILK (sweet almond worts)

MYLATES OF PORK (a pork & cheese tart)

STEKYS OF BEF (cinnamon-pepper steaks)

ERBOLE (plum & wine pudding )

 

Cours ii

BLACK PORRAY (sauteed leeks & bacon)

EOWTES OF FLESSH (potherbs cooked in broth)

BRUET OF SARCYNESSE (sweet beef ragout)

BLAUNCH PORRE (sweet leeks & quail)

AQUAPATYS (boiled cloves of garlic)

STRAWBERYE  (a berry and almond pudding)

After some confusion about where to line up, we were all led inside and downstairs to their feasting hall that was elaborately decorated floor to ceiling in medieval art and seated around benches shoulder to shoulder and told how things were going to go. First we were to rinse our hands with their floral water (because we’d be eating with our fingers), then we’d be given a trencher (a large round circle of bread, much like the bottom half of a hamburger bun) to place our other courses upon. We could also eat our trencher, but were instructed to do so sparingly so as to not find ourselves without a plate. Food was to be served family style, passed down the row to about twelve people, and if I thought it was hard to to visually gauge a one-sixth portion of a thai lunch, it was even harder to gauge a one-twelfth portion, which meant that I took tiny dribbles of everything and the dudes at the end who didn’t need to worry about the appetites of their neighbors ate like damn hell ass kings.

boars hede innI snuck one photo because I’m a bad person and an enemy of ambiance. But look at how beautiful this medieval hall is!

 My impressions of the first course were as follows: meh. The trencher was ok, and the salad was just bitter green leaves by themselves. The cinnamon pepper steaks were oddly sweet in a not-pleasing fashion. The crust on the pork and cheese tart was very good, however, and while the bowl of almond worts looked like curdled milk barf that I was very hesitant about spooning onto my trencher (which probably also has something to do with their “no photos” policy), it was good as well, as were the plums. About ten minutes after we had started eating, we were served a small amount of wine or juice, according to our preference.

The room grew hotter and hotter and though we started as a group of forty strangers, we began to bond over our shared misery. One of the guys at the end of our serving row talked about the Buckley Renaissance Faire’s ice cold pickle wench so longingly you’d think she granted wishes rather than sold pickles. I demanded to speak to the Lord of Camlann because I had some grievances to air. People started begging for more to drink, saying that they’d pay extra, and were denied. We joked about this being what feasts in hell must be like. Someone on the other end of the long table tried asking about the food in ye olde Englishe and everyone laughed. People started clanging their pewter cups with their knives, and as we sweated and our stomachs rumbled and our mouths ached for moisture, it began to feel like the kind of environment in which peasants revolt and begin burning down buildings. What is it with this place and beverages? I understood going in that Camlann was not Medieval Times, but is there something about perpetual thirstiness and the serfs that I missed in history class? For my $45, I didn’t expect knights jousting in front of my table, giving me their favors with all of the pageantry you’d find at some other kind of medieval faire, but I did expect that my basic needs would be met.

To kill time while the cooks were clearly struggling in the kitchen, the same guy acted as our “courtly minstrel” and sang us a couple of deeply cringeworthy songs, one of which was about riddles and somehow made me hate riddles more than I already do, which I’d previously assumed was an impossibility. FINALLY the second course came out, and after that, our second thimble of wine. Second course: Also mostly meh. The leeks and bacon were good, but that was pretty much the only standout. The strawberry and almond pudding was essentially jam. The sweet beef was really unpleasantly sweet, and what I’m assuming was the leeks and quail (chicken at our feast) was mixed with some kind of dry ginger spice and not mixed well, because in my small portion, I got a huge pocket of spice in my mouth and it was horrendous. I was so glad that I’d brought a bottle of water back with me from town, but even that was at the dregs.

After all was said and done, we were told that Camlann is a nonprofit and should any of us feel so moved as to write them a verrye larrge cheqque, that it would be much appreciated, and for a mere $100,000, I could have my likeness rendered into a stained glass window as a saint, which I feel is a bargain at any price. I obviously can’t fling around 100k, but I do very much like the idea of Saint Mellzah, Picker at Food and Swearer of Swears.

stained glassI then enjoyed a thirteenth course of Menchie’s, pantsless, in my flower crown and didn’t share anything with anyone. It was glorious.