Category Travel

Taiwan Part Two: Application Process, Acceptance, and Arrival.

The Rotary application process was fairly arduous. I had to write essays about myself, my family, what I was planning on doing with my life, and send it in with photographs of these things as well. After the initial screening, they conducted psychological testing, and I had to go through a series of interviews with Rotarians, psychologists, and former/current exchange students, who graded me based on my responses and my appearance(?!). So long as one is good at telling people what they want to hear, it’s not an issue getting through these things. I am quite good at telling people what they want to hear.

Before they conducted these interviews, I was given a list of 50 countries to choose from, which I had to rate from 1-50 in my order of preference. As I would be 18/19 at the time of my exchange, a few countries made it clear that they did not want a student my age to be there on exchange (Australia, Germany, and a couple of others that I cannot recall at the moment) and I can only presume it is because I would be considered an adult there. Those countries I ranked last on the list, as there was no point in ranking them higher. My first five choices, in order, were: Finland, Japan, Costa Rica, Italy, and Taiwan. Finland and Italy because I wanted to see and learn more about my family’s history, Costa Rica because of the exchange student in my advanced math analysis class who showed me all of these gorgeous pictures and had some incredible stories, and Japan and Taiwan because I had a fascination with asian culture. I would’ve included Singapore and Indonesia higher on my list because of my grandparents, but I learned in advance that they were not sending students there as they were considered ‘unsafe’ at that point in time. I learned later that they were not sending students to Costa Rica for the same reason. Scratch one from my top three.

During the interviews they grilled me about my choices of countries, why I ranked them the way I did, and then asked me about the countries I ranked last, and how I would feel if I were sent there instead of to one of my top three (which generally is the case). I explained my reasoning behind my last choices, and that seemed to satisfy everyone on the panel except the current exchange student on the board, who happened to be from Australia. She seemed displeased that I had ranked her country last, and I received the lowest scores from her out of everyone, especially savaging my appearance.

After I was deemed mentally stable and a good candidate for exchange, it was time for the waiting game. They sent your application off to your top choices and tried to match you with a Rotary club in that country who was willing to sponsor you. In January of 2000, I was called by the Kenosha Rotarians and told that I would be going to Taiwan, that the Chung Ho Full May Rotary Club (a Rotary club of all women, which was and is quite remarkable!) had sponsored me, and I would be living in Taipei. Time to start getting excited/nervous. I didn’t know any Chinese, and there weren’t a lot of resources in Smalltown, Wisconsin to draw from in making ANY sort of attempt to learn. My first host mother emailed me, and told me about her, her husband, and his son Edward. She also told me which school I’d be going to (Chung Cheng Gao Chung, which roughly means Chang Kai-Shek High), and that it was a mixed-gender school, which is fairly rare in Taiwan. I felt much more at ease after writing back and forth with her, as I knew that learning Chinese could be transitionary and she’d help me, as opposed to having to play charades.

Over the summer, all exchange students (in the midwest) who were going out, all students who were in the midwest on exchange (poor, poor kids. Who wants to go to the US and watch corn grow?), and a majority of the students who’d just come back from exchange met for a long weekend in Grand Rapids, Michigan, for some bonding exercises, but mostly for more meetings, meetings, meetings. Rotarians know how to talk. They love to talk. There were points where I wondered if it caused Rotarians physical pain to NOT talk, if perhaps their jaws would lock up and they’d die. We all were required to buy/bring navy blue jackets with us which would identify us as Rotary exchange students. At Grand Rapids, all of the exchange students exchanged tchotchkes from our respective countries which were then attached to the jacket. These items were like good luck charms to us, our grigri. By the time I got home from Taiwan, my jacket weighed over 10 pounds, and felt like 50 when worn for extended periods of time. In July, my family moved to California from Wisconsin, so I had to say goodbye to my friends and my boyfriend a month before I was to get on the plane, which was the hardest thing, because I knew that unlike my friends that had gone on exchange before, I wouldn’t be coming ‘home’ again. Pre-flight jitters were really starting to set in. It didn’t become ‘real’ to me until I was on the first plane. I flew from San Diego to Seattle to meet and ride with other exchange students going to the far East. After a 10 hour flight, the plane landed in Tokyo, and it was time again to say goodbye to everyone and go on alone. Some 3 hours of layover plus four more hours of flying put me in Taipei, for a grand total of over 24 hours of travel time. The bags under my eyes are particularly spectacular in this picture.

From left to right, my host brother (弟弟/didi) Edward, Tracy (伯母/Ah-e), myself, CP Su Mei (the Taiwanese Martha Stewart) and Huang (伯父/Su-su) (Tracy’s husband). Some host families are very pushy about you calling them Mom and Dad, but Tracy was not among them. It made us both more comfortable, and I called them Aunt Tracy and Uncle Huang for the duration of my stay, Aunt and Uncle being more of an honorific than an actual designation of blood relation After about a week, Uncle Huang consulted his books to determine an appropriate Chinese name for me. My last name is very close to ‘Lee’, so from now until forever, I get to pretend that I’m in Bruce Lee’s family. Based off of a number of factors I cannot understand–number of strokes, balance, luck, etc construed from the I-Ching, it was determined that my name would be (in honky pinyin) Lee E Jieh. The characters for my name make up the icon I use for all of these posts relating to Taiwan. Again, roughly translated, it means ‘pure plum blossom’. You may feel free to laugh; those of you who know me personally, or have read my journal for more than a day or two, are likely to laugh hardest. I’ve always laughed about it.

Taiwan Part One: The Beginnings of Wanderlust

I think it was my grandparents that raised my interest in travel. My grandfather’s business often sent him to Singapore and Indonesia, and so for much of the time period before I was 10, my grandparents lived overseas. They sent me postcard after postcard, telling silly stories, and things about the cultures in those respective countries. I found it fascinating and at the same time, it normalized overseas travel–I thought it was something that everyone did.

The stories were wild and fantastical, usually involving Grandmere turning into a tiny pony, and when Grandpere turned her back into a princess, he put on his prince clothes and then they went out and everyone asked for their autographs because they were my grandparents.

‘Gila’ is a word my grandpa picked up somewhere that means ‘crazy’, or so he has claimed for years. If it’s a fib, he’s really sticking to it. One postcard he sent me had a picture of a man driving a horse-drawn cart. They became ‘Mr. Pony and Mr. Ponyman’ and they’ve been part of our insider language ever since.

Another of our inside stoies were about how The Three Billy Goats Gruff weren’t just going over the bridge to chew on any old grass. No, they were going to the other side to chew on the sweet-smelling grass that tastes like gum. (Bubblegum, specifically. None of that mint stuff.)

Grandpa also used to send me cassette tapes where he’d read me stories. I remember quite clearly the one about the Billy Goats Gruff, but the others I cannot. I’d give a kidney to have those tapes now. It’s likely that in some bit of foolishness, I decided I was a grownup and didn’t need to hear kids’ stories anymore. Of course, at that age, I also thought my grandparents would live forever, and he could ALWAYS tell me the stories if I wanted to hear them again.

So very early on I associated overseas travel not only with adventure, but also with the idea that it would help you grow closer to people; not just new friends, but with the people you loved. In 1999, I put an application in at the Rotary to be a foreign exchange student.

The Chinaman is not the issue, dude. Also, dude, chinaman is not the preferred nomenclature.

Paul responded to my distress signal last night, bravely venturing into Hillcrest with his friend Anthony, whom I hadn’t met before. Anthony had lost his wallet so he had no identification. This meant no bars. We made our way first to Denny’s, but everything about that place is…well…Every time you eat at a Denny’s, you can rest assured that everyone else there is as miserable as you are. It was maybe 10 minutes of nonstop Office Space, Family Guy, and the Big Lebowski quotes going back and forth and then we decided we needed to get out of that place that so resembles the bleakest moments of the human soul.

We decided, of course, that the next stop would be a liquor store. Being Christmas day, of course none of them were open. We were not daunted by this and went to 7-11 to purchase our wares there. As soon as we bought our booze, we realized we really didn’t have a place to drink it. I certainly couldn’t bring them into my dad’s place, what with my dad sleeping on an air mattress on the kitchen floor, my grandparents sleeping on the bed upstairs, and the whole thing being so open and ‘airy’ that any sound made by anyone in ANY ONE of those rooms is amplified a billion times to the rest of the apartment. Balboa Park was out. Too many security guards, too many junkies. The athletic park didn’t have any place to park that didn’t scream out “Look! We’re here and drinking in public!” so we did the next thing that any resourceful person would do. We went to Jack in the Box to get cups so we could drink on the street with reckless abandon.

We swing into the drive-through and place our order–3 ninety-nine cent cheeseburgers and 3 large waters. Paul pulls up and we were all surprised to see a guy standing at the drive-through window. What the…? Did they start serving walk-ups at the drive-through window after the restaurant portion closed? Why does he look so angry? It becomes clear as he starts shouting at us. “You might as well just back up and leave because you’re not getting your food until I get a fucking burger. All I want is a fucking burger and they’re calling the cops on me, so it’s going to be a half an hour til the cops get here and then I’ll get a fucking burger and you’ll get your food.”

We looked at each other incredulously and after just a moment of debate about revving the engine to make it seem like we were going to run the guy down, Paul began to back out of the drive-through. He stopped at the menu and asked the worker inside if she knew she had a crazy guy waiting at her window. She replied she did, and that she had called the police, and that she was sorry, but we’d have to wait until he was gone. We pulled around the corner and lo and behold, the dipshit had left the drive-through. So Paul pulls back in, we get our large waters and burgers, and we pull away. Paul starts eating a buger, drives around for a minute, and we see the crazy guy walking away in the distance. Most people would let things be. Some evil people might slow down and flaunt their purchase. We slowed down, rolled down the window, and Anthony chucked Paul’s half-eaten burger out the window at the guy, shouting,”Here’s your fucking burger, asshole!” and sped away. Down a dead-end street.

This story will live on forever in the annals of our history as one of the funniest, most satisfying moments of all time.